We woke to the sound of both the alarm and the church bells ringing through St. Johann. After a delicious breakfast at the hotel, we finished packing, tightened our boots, and set off on the first stage of the Adlerweg.

The first few kilometres were easy going—flat country roads leading us to the official trailhead. In retrospect, it might have been simpler to stay closer to the starting point at Rummlerhof, but hindsight is always clearer. Soon enough, the real climbing began as the path wound up through meadows, accompanied by the constant music of cowbells.

Our first milestone was a waterfall we would eventually walk behind. Along the way, we paused for a short break and met Heather and Dermot, a couple following the same itinerary as us. They kindly offered to share the route, though being a bit quicker on their feet, they soon pulled ahead. Eventually, we reached the waterfall itself, where goats with jingling bells added to the alpine soundtrack. It was the perfect spot for lunch.

From there, the day grew tougher. The sun was high, the trail steeper, and our water bottles nearly empty. Just as we were beginning to worry, an inn appeared like a blessing on the trail. We stopped for refreshing apple juice and gratefully filled our bottles before tackling the hardest stretch of the day: a 400m climb to the highest point of the stage. It was a slog, and I was exhausted by the time we made it. Along the way we chatted briefly with a young man from Denmark, another reminder of how international these trails can be.

The descent felt endless—every trail marker promising “5 minutes” seemed to take us twice as long. But eventually, weary and relieved, we reached our hut for the night. Dinner was simple but satisfying: soup, pasta, and raspberry cake, shared at a table with Heather and Dermot.

We ended the evening by snapping photos of the route itinerary for the days ahead, then headed for an early bed. Tomorrow will bring another mountain stage, and we’ll need the rest.