After a slightly restless night’s sleep in the Youth Hostel, we were ready for another day on the trail. I was sharing a dorm with three other women, while Ric was in with five other men—one of whom turned out to be a rather enthusiastic snorer!
Following breakfast at 7:30 a.m., we set off at around 8:30. The day began with an easy walk along a gravel track through the trees, with light rain coming and going.
A Pleasant Surprise
Partway through the morning, I suddenly realised something amazing—my Achilles tendon wasn’t hurting at all! After months of worrying whether it would cope with the Coast to Coast, it felt fantastic to be walking pain-free. A huge thank you to Malyne Sean at Mahogany Physio for getting me trail-ready.
Ric, meanwhile, was beginning to regret leaving his waterproof trousers behind as the showers became more frequent.
📷 Black Sail
Coffee at Black Sail
The walk to Black Sail Youth Hostel was relatively gentle, making it the perfect place to stop for a well-earned coffee and a 30-minute break.
As soon as we stepped back outside, however, the rain became much heavier.
From Black Sail the trail climbed steeply up Loft Beck, gaining around 350 metres. It was hard work, but the scenery—even hidden behind the cloud—made it feel like a true Lake District adventure.
Near the top we were joined by Clive, whom we’d met at the Youth Hostel the night before.
Walking with Clive
Clive shared stories from his many adventures in the fells. He has completed all 214 of Wainwright’s fells and knows these mountains incredibly well.
He told us that on a clear day the views from the top are spectacular. Unfortunately, all we could see was thick cloud! Even so, there was something special about crossing the pass in such wild weather.
📷 Photo: Climbing Loft Beck (or the misty summit)
Lunch at Honister
After a few more kilometres we reached Honister Slate Mine, where we stopped for lunch. Valerie (who we’d met at the Youth Hostel) joined us, and afterwards she and Clive walked with us on the descent. One of the lovely things about the Coast to Coast is how often you cross paths with the same people, and we all hoped we’d meet again in Grasmere.
📷
A Small Disappointment
One thing I was disappointed about was forgetting to get my Coast to Coast passport stamped at Honister By the time I remembered we were well past Honister and i was not going to hike back up to get a stamp. I guess I’ll just have to accept that every journey has a few little mishaps!
Reflections
Nothing beats a hot shower after a long, wet day on the fells. Stretching out on the bed afterwards felt absolutely wonderful.
Today’s walk had everything—rain, steep climbs, cloud-covered summits, great conversations and new friendships. Although we missed the famous views, sharing the experience with fellow walkers made it a memorable day.
After all that climbing, I think we’ll both sleep very well tonight.
—Today’s Stats
Route: Ennerdale YHA to Rosthwaite
Distance: Approximately 23 km
Elevation Gain: ~650 m
Weather: Wet, cloudy and cool