Stage 5: Bayreuther Hütte → Maurach
The night was a little restless — five of us sharing a room, and with the window shut it became uncomfortably warm. By morning we were glad to pack up and head downstairs for breakfast. We’d ordered the night before: Ric had chosen the “large breakfast,” which turned out to be generous slices of meat and cheese with bread (we’d imagined something hot), while I had a big bowl of muesli with yoghurt and milk. At least the coffee was strong and satisfying.
We set off around 8:15, the trail starting downhill over grassy knolls before narrowing into a track that clung to the edge of a steep cliff. Soon the climbing began: first a wide track with seven long switchbacks, then a narrower traverse across a scree slope, before steep stone steps that seemed endless. The heat made every step harder, and by the time we reached the top I was exhausted.
We stopped for lunch at the summit, catching our breath and refuelling before beginning the long descent. At the top cable car station, a beautiful café awaited with panoramic views. We treated ourselves to a drink on the terrace, soaking in the scenery before taking the cable car down into the valley.
Our hotel in Maurach was a welcome sight, complete with a balcony where we quickly washed and hung clothes to dry in the sunshine. After two hot days of hiking, the shower felt nothing short of heavenly. Later we walked to the supermarket for supplies, then made the decision to shorten tomorrow’s stage — rain is forecast all day, and it seems wiser to adapt.
Dinner was a full “gala” affair, included with the stay: smoked salmon to start, soup, then veal with vegetables, and a rich chocolate pudding to finish. The cheese board looked tempting, but we were already full. By the time we finished, it was late, and we slipped off to bed, tired but content.
Stage Notes – Day 5
Route: Bayreuther Hütte → cable car → Maurach
Distance: ~8.7 km
Ascent: ~653 m
Highlights: Narrow cliffside trail and switchbacks, drink at the panoramic café, first hot shower in days, gala dinner at the hotel